Weeding is critical part of successful gardening.   Weeds:

•  Take resources from valued plants

•  Are usually unattractive and negatively affect garden design

•  Can release irritating pollen (ragweed)

•  Produce thousands of seeds and sometimes spread by roots

•  Deteriorate foundations, sidewalks, and asphalt

•  And have to go!

I handled a lot of projects at ma's backyard oasis this weekend, including: planting dahlias and morning glories, staking lilies, edging the turf, cleaning the pond filter, and removing some Boston ivy.   But no task was more important than the weeding.   Now is the time to pull the cold season weeds (garlic mustard, creeping ranunculus, quack grass, henbit, and a wide array of mustards) before they ripen their seed.   This is also a good time to catch the summer weeds before their roots get anchored and they begin to spread.

Weeding regularly over the next three weeks will make life easier and the garden healthier in July.   Weeds take nutrients, water, and light from valuable garden plants.   Spreaders, like dayflower, hawkweed, and creeping Charlie, can overwhelm groundcovers in a couple of weeks.   Beasts, like thistle, crabgrass, and burdock, can outcompete all but the toughest garden plants.   And nothing but woody plants are safe from the persistent bindweed and its morning glory-like cousins.

Once you identify them, there are several methods to defeat this crew.

Hand-pulling - This has been a tried and true method since the days of Adam and Eve.   The biggest drawback is the back-knotting, knee-straining labor.   I still pull most of my weeds.   I like to feel my work, and it is surprisingly enjoyable to yank the bastards out!   Combined with a trowel or weeder , hand-pulling is a very effective way to remove most of root and limit re-growth.

Hoeing - A method at least as old as the Iron Age and probably older.   Over the last two years, I have started to rely on the hoe more.   It definitely saves some back pain.   However, hoeing is not precise.   It is difficult to hoe around garden plants without damaging them.   Plus hoes only remove the top portion, and many weeds will quickly re-sprout, if the root remains in the ground.   Hoeing is more suited for crops in rows than ornamental gardens.

Mulching or covering - This is usually preceded by hand-pulling or hoeing.   However, in gardens with mostly shrubs, trees, or large perennials, several inches of mulch can be applied on top of weeds to smother them.    For extra protection gardeners sometimes lie down landscape cloth, perforated plastic sheets, or newspapers directly on the weeds and then pile on a few inches of mulch.   This can be very effective for large or stark landscapes, but there are drawbacks.   Many weeds will survive mulching alone.   A few (bindweed, woodies) can survive and even break through landscape cloth.   Finally, heavy mulching or covering may be impractical for established gardens

Chemical - I am a natural gardener and do not like to use pesticides or herbicides, but in some situations there okay.   Weeds in foundations, sidewalks, or patios may be inextricable by any other method.   Spot spraying lawn for dandelions can dramatically improve curb appeal.   Always follow directions.   Never spray on windy days.   And remember it is much better to under-spray them over-spray.   If you need more you can simply re-apply, but you can never un-apply.

Living mulches - Some garden plants grow so dense that they can serve as effective weed control.   Wild ginger, appendaged waterleaf, celandine poppy, and hybrid hellebores work well in shady areas.   Raydon's aster, turtlehead, and lemon balm form dense mats in the sun.   Living mulches will not stop all weeds, but they can help.   Careful, unchecked these workhorses can become weedy themselves.  

Throughout June, incorporate a little weeding into your daily garden walks.   If they get outta' hand, make a plan and set up a time to tackle 'em before it gets worse.   The goal is not a weed-free garden, but a beautiful space that does not feature weeds.